Drake One Fifty; Soos; Jackson's Burgers

Another respected critic has slammed Drake One Fifty's kitchen, helmed by chef Ted Corrado. Despite the eatery's swish interior, The Globe And Mail's Chris Nuttall-Smith joins the chorus and blasts the spot for being "excruciatingly loud," and dismisses the food without reserve: The liver and onions appear "grey and dank as emphysema," "the rabbit pasta was dry and insipid," and the steak frites was "chewy and under-seasoned." Some dishes, like the testina, got high marks, and the desserts, by pastry chef Christine Fancy, were praised, but it was all too little and too late. Nuttall-Smith's parting words: "I can't in good conscience send you here." Ouch. [The Globe And Mail]
Update: The reviews for Drake One Fifty continue to play the extremes. Amy Pataki thinks "the menu of updated comfort foods is approachable, the flavours clean and sharp." Her glowing assessment plays devil's advocate to Nuttall-Smith's vitriol.

Toronto Life gives praise to Soos' Malaysian fare but the family-run Ossington restaurant only gets one star. The reviewer clearly enjoyed the poutine, "a serious new contender for the city's best," and the rest, a mix of "clever bar snacks" and classic Malaysian dishes, was pulled off "without seeming kitschy." The clue in the low rating could be that the "result is a restaurant greater than its parts." But following each description, the parts sound pretty solid. [Toronto Life]

In the year 2014, even the cheaper burgers have a high pedigree. Jackson's Burgers features hormone and antibiotic-free meat, from Caledonia's Paradise Farm, at prices that will please near-by Ryerson students. The vegan and gluten-free crowd can also get in on the action with a solid veggie patty, though as BlogTO reports, there are "some structural issues" with a mushroom that can't sit still. If that wasn't inclusive enough, the Jackson Salad doesn't look like an after-thought. [BlogTO]
[Photo: Soos Resto/Bar]